Hosteria PapaGayo (Tel 2310002, 09-9903524; www.hosteria-papgayao.com; Panamericana Sur 26; camping/dm $3/6, r with private bathroom $8-12) This stunningly converted, 150 year-old farm house is the perfect base for acclimatizing, climbing and trekking in and around the Ilinizas, Cotopaxi and nearby Corazon. Both dorm beds and private rooms are available, making it an excellent budget option for cash-strapped climbers. Roomes are straightforward but colourful, some have private bathrooms, and some even have fireplaces. It boasts an excellent restaurant, a bar and a sort a sort of “disco barn” (haa-aay! For weekly parties). There are lots of animals around (ouside), and hiking and climbing information (inside). Tours, guides and horseback riding can be arranged. It is 500 m west of the Panamericana and about 2 km north of the El Chaupi turn-off (or 1km south of the Machachi toll booth). Bus drivers know the spot.